Questions, answered.

Yes. Call or text (325) 518-8031, or send a request through the estimate form, and we'll schedule a time to look at your project.

We're based in Abilene, Texas and serve the surrounding Big Country, including Potosi, Tuscola, Hawley and Clyde. See our service area.

Yes. We're fully insured, have an ISA Certified Arborist on the team, are NCCER safety certified, hold an A+ rating with the BBB, and are members of the ISA, the ISA Texas Chapter and the Utility Arborist Association.

Yes. We offer 24/7 storm damage cleanup. Call (325) 518-8031 when a storm brings down trees or limbs.

Yes. We grind and remove stumps, either as part of a tree removal or as a standalone job.

Beyond tree care, we install sod, flowerbeds and river rock beds, level yards, fix drainage problems, and build paver and flagstone patios, pergolas and arbors.

Yes. Our team includes an ISA Certified Arborist, and our tree work follows the International Society of Arboriculture’s standards.

It depends on the size of the tree, how easy it is to reach, what’s underneath it and how much cleanup is involved. That’s why we look at every job in person and give you a free estimate before any work starts.

Yes. We serve the surrounding Big Country, including Potosi, Tuscola, Hawley and Clyde. See our service area.

Yes. We also do landscaping, so the same crew can grind the stump, level the ground and lay new sod or build a bed where a tree used to be.

It depends on the tree. Young trees benefit from structural pruning every few years while they’re growing. Mature trees usually need attention less often, mainly to remove deadwood and keep clearance over the house and driveway.

Good pruning doesn’t. Removing the right branches at the right place lets the tree seal the wound naturally. Topping and over-thinning are what cause harm, and ISA pruning standards rule both out.

Yes. Live oaks are one of the most common shade trees in Abilene. Because of oak wilt, routine pruning is best done outside February through June, with fresh cuts painted. A broken or dangerous limb should come off whenever it’s needed.

Yes. Our crew cleans up when we’re finished, so you’re not left with a yard full of branches.

It depends on the tree’s size and condition, how easy it is to reach, what’s underneath it and how much cleanup is involved. We look at the tree in person and give you a free estimate before any work starts.

Yes. We grind stumps as part of a removal or as a standalone job. See stump grinding.

Small trees in open ground, maybe. Anything large, leaning, dead or near a house, fence or power line is a job for an insured crew. Trees often don’t fall where people expect, and dead wood can break unpredictably.

We’re on call 24/7 for storm damage. Call or text (325) 518-8031, and see storm damage cleanup for what to do in the meantime.

No. We grind stumps as part of a tree removal or as a standalone job, so an old stump left from years ago is no problem.

Most stumps won’t once they’re ground below the surface. Mesquite and a few other species can resprout from buds and roots below ground, so they need to be ground deeper, and an occasional new shoot may need to be cut back.

Grinding removes the stump and the top of the main roots. The rest of the root system stays in the ground and breaks down over time.

Yes. Clear out most of the wood chips, fill with soil, and let it settle before laying sod. Chips left in the hole will sink as they rot and can starve new grass of nitrogen.

Yes. Storm damage cleanup is a 24/7 service. Call or text (325) 518-8031.

If a line is down or a tree is touching a line, call your electric provider first and stay well clear. Once the lines are safe, we can take care of the tree.

Sometimes. Policies often cover removal when a tree falls on a covered structure, but coverage varies. Take photos before anything is moved and check with your insurer.

Often, yes. A tree that lost a few limbs can usually recover with careful pruning. Trees with split trunks, major root damage or most of the canopy gone are usually safer to remove. We’ll look at it and tell you which is which.

We design and install flower beds built for West Texas weather. For bigger projects, tell us what you have in mind and we’ll talk through options during your free estimate.

Yes. Handling both means trees are trimmed or removed before new sod, beds or patios go in, so nothing gets damaged afterward.

Heat-tolerant grass like Bermuda in full sun, native and adapted plants in beds, and rock or mulch in spots that are hard to water. Good drainage and leveling underneath matter as much as what’s on top.

Call or text (325) 518-8031, or send the estimate form. We’ll visit the property, talk through what you want, and give you a clear, free estimate.

Keep foot traffic light for the first couple of weeks while the roots establish. A gentle tug on a corner tells you: if the sod resists lifting, it’s rooting in.

Late spring through summer, when warm-season grasses like Bermuda are actively growing and root in fastest.

Yes. Laying sod over existing grass and weeds leads to uneven, patchy results, because the new roots can’t reach the soil.

Wait until it has rooted, usually after a couple of weeks. Mow on a high setting at first, and never take off more than a third of the blade at once.

St. Augustine handles more shade than Bermuda. In deep shade, a bed or river rock may do better than grass, or trimming to raise the tree canopy can let more light through.

Thin layers of topdressing won’t; the grass grows up through them. Thick layers can smother it, which is why deeper low spots are filled gradually or resodded.

When the grass is actively growing, which is late spring through summer for Bermuda and other warm-season grasses, so it recovers quickly.

With thin topdressing on actively growing grass, the soil usually disappears under new growth within a few weeks. Watering after each pass helps the soil settle around the grass.

Yes. After a tree removal and stump grinding, the old stump area and any ruts can be filled, leveled and resodded.

Both. We design and install flower beds built for West Texas weather.

Mulch keeps soil cooler and breaks down to feed it, but needs topping up. Rock lasts for years and suits low-water plantings, though it holds more heat. See river rock beds.

Fall and spring. Fall planting gives roots time to settle in before summer heat. Spring works well too, as long as new plants get regular water through their first summer.

Plan on regular watering through the first summer, pulling the occasional weed, and topping up mulch once or twice a year. Native and adapted plants need far less water once they’re established.

A few will eventually, from seeds that blow in and settle between the stones. Good fabric underneath and a deep enough layer of rock keep it to an occasional pull.

It depends on the spot. Rock lasts for years and needs no water, so it’s ideal for low-maintenance areas. Mulch keeps soil cooler and feeds it, which suits beds full of plants. See flower beds.

Yes, and it’s often a good choice there because it doesn’t hold moisture against the foundation the way mulch can. The ground underneath should slope away from the house.

Smaller rock, around an inch, works well in tight beds and along paths. Larger rock, two to four inches, stays put better on slopes and where water runs. Mixing sizes can look more natural.

Maybe. A French drain helps when water collects in a spot that reshaping the ground can’t fix, or when runoff comes onto your property from higher ground. Often a simpler fix like regrading or extending a downspout does the job, which is why we look at the yard first.

Water that sits against a foundation on clay soil can contribute to movement and cracking over time. Keeping water moving away from the house is one of the simplest ways to protect it.

If you can, take photos or video of where the water goes during or right after a rain. It shows exactly where the problem starts, which is hard to see on a dry day.

Runoff from higher ground can often be caught along the property line with a swale or French drain and carried around the house. It’s worth planning carefully where that water ends up, so the fix doesn’t just move the problem next door.

Color matters more than material. Light-colored pavers and light limestone flagstone both stay noticeably cooler underfoot than dark stone in an Abilene summer.

Often, with care. Roots need room and air, so the patio should stay clear of the area right around the trunk, and heavy digging over major roots should be avoided. Because we’re tree people too, we can look at both the patio plan and the tree.

Concrete costs less up front, but slabs tend to crack as clay soil moves, and cracks are hard to repair invisibly. Pavers can flex with small movements, and individual pieces can be lifted and reset.

Yes. We install paver and flagstone patios, walkways and stepping stones.

Not on its own. Slats filter the sun to partial shade. For more, the slats can be spaced closer, a shade cloth added, or vines trained over the top.

Size and purpose. A pergola is large enough to cover a seating area or patio. An arbor is smaller, usually framing a gate, a path or a bench, and is often covered in climbing plants.

Yes, pergolas can be freestanding or attached. An attached pergola needs a solid connection at the wall and careful planning around the roofline and gutters. A freestanding one can go anywhere in the yard.

It depends on where you live and the size of the structure. Check with your city and your HOA, if you have one, before building.